Hello Guv'nor, I recently bought a vintage tweed sport coat that is in need of a bit of dry cleaning. Can you recommend anyone in NYC? Cheers.
A lot of a jacket’s shape can be a result of pressing. When you hang your jacket up in the shower to steam or take it to a sub standard dry cleaner (which is 98% of dry cleaners) you’re removing part of the process that jacket went through to retain its shape.
Experienced tailors can actually “shape” fabric with heat (an iron). It’s the reason one piece back jackets are so impressive if done correctly. It takes tailors years to learn this. Do you think Dry Cleaners care to learn? Not many.
So, if you’re jacket’s not really expensive I’d suggest two things.
1) Don’t dry clean it. Decent wool will release wrinkles and odors over time. Hang it on a cedar hanger and brush it. Sponge clean it if you must. After it’s clean use an iron with very little steam and a pressing cloth and press it with the lapels open.
2) If you have to dry clean it and it’s not bespoke it really doesn’t matter where you go. Just take it to a place that you’re confident won’t make major mistakes like discoloration, tearing the lining, blowing out stitches.
On Episode Nine of the Menswear House Podcast we invite a special guest to join us in our talks about Japanese clothing culture and what makes personal style. You’ve all asked for him and we finally persuaded Jeremy Kirkland to come on the show.
In this episode, we discuss the ingenuity and attention to detail that the Japanese bring to men’s clothing as well as what attracted each of us to it. Jeremy also talks about the way he sees clothing now and how that’s changed over time. As usual Jeff nerds out about shoemaking, Jake gets philosophical, and Kyle just wants a Salmon people coat.
A big thank you to Jeremy Kirkland for coming on the show and dropping gems, this certainly won’t be his last time on the show. And as always, please hit us up with any comments or questions at MenswearHousePodcast@gmail.com
Turning Japanese I think I’m turning Japanese I really think so.
“It is impossible to name, seriously, the best-dressed or even the ten best-dressed men in the world. There are different styles, and certain men who wear each of them well. The details of a man’s costume are a matter of individual taste – whether his lapels be broad or narrow or his trousers long or short. I prefer four buttons on my coat sleeves, for example, but I cannot give any logical reason why I do. Yet I am credited with having influenced styles in my time. It was quite unconscious; I have always tried to dress to my own individual taste.”—The Duke of Windsor is unconscious.
For this week’s episode we couldn’t pick one topic. So we picked ten. In our first ever rapid fire episode the Menswear House Podcast team tears through ten topics in thirty minutes, devoting three minutes to each topic. What are those topics? Well, you’ll just have to listen to find out. And of course because three minutes isn’t even close to enough time to cover these topics, there’s sure to be tons of info that we left out, so please chime in on Twitter or shoot us an email at MenswearHousePodcast@gmail.com
Hi Jeff, I asked Jake at downeastandout about some good menswear-related shops to check out while I'm in Chicago. He pointed me to you. I've seen Haberdash, Independence, Orvis, Cucinelli, and the typical fashion retailers up and down Michigan and State already. Looking for new spots to check out. Any recommendations? Thanks.
You’ve hit most of the main shops. I’d also suggest Paul Stuart on Oak Street, Jack Spade, Apartment No. 9, the Ralph Mansion, & Sir & Madame. Next to Jack Spade on Oak there is this shop called George Greene which is an ABSOLUTE CLUSTER FUCK but it’s cool to go see their Kiton and fuck with the salespeople. There’s also the standard high end department stores around there.
If you get the chance and he isn’t busy, stop in to see Chris Despos - really great person and incredible tailoring. If you end up ordering something from him then tell him I sent you. If not, then don’t mention me.